Santorini – here we go, Right back where we started from (Athens)

Santorini definitely has a charm – but it can take a while to find once the Caldera is out of view. The Caldera probably has a 70 –80 km circumference Half of this forms the concave western side of the island itself and the other half is either submerged or consists of the island of Thirassia and another uninhabited island. Today (Wed 8th) we took a boat trip to the volcano island of Nea Kameni in the middle of the caldera. This island has only formed (from volcanic activity) in the last few hundred years (similar to the way Krakatoa is emerging again). Only sign of activity today was a sulphur smell near the main ‘active’ crater and a few small fumeroles. From there we went to another nearby island Palea Kameni to swim in the hot springs in an inlet of the sea. Two main problems – you had to swim from the boat about 100 metres or so through the cold, very deep Mediterranean to get there (no pier for boats). Being confident, in such conditions for only 25 metres (the length of Ashburton pool) I ended up swimming about 400 metres as every time I swam on my back I did a 180 degree turn and headed back towards the boat ! But I eventually made it (“Where were you said Kitty calming plastering herself with sulphurous mud – I thought you must have drowned” - even the man at El Greco café in town would have been more concerned. No wonder I dare not fall asleep at night before Kitty does.). The ‘hot springs’ were only a few degrees warmer than the sea. And for this I risked my life !
At Thirassia we had a big meal and then decided to climb ‘the steps’ – to the town of Manalos about 200m higher. It was very hoi – and the town was pretty deserted so we decided to go an extra 100m or so up to the top of the highest hill. Had to bush bash in sandals and with a GPS (supplied by a fellow traveller) to get there but boy was the view worth it. A 360 degree view of the entire Caldera. Then with little time to get back to the boat we raced down the mountain – I beat Kitty by a few minutes so raced into the sea to cool off. Did not even remove my sandals – which was good given the sea-floor consisted of rocks 20 cm plus in size. But we made it to the boat - with at least a minute to spare.
Travelling around Santorini on the lawnmower (the ATV) was OK but its top speed was about 40 kph and it had no fuel gauge. We only ran out of fuel once – in the middle of nowhere – but confidently turned on the 1 litre reserve tank only to find the ATV would not start. After much swearing and cursing, and with Kitty ready to catch a lift into town I found a kick start lever and kick started it. We gingerly drove into Oia on the N end of the island only to find it has NO petrol station. The nearest is 12 km away in Fira. Anyway we joined the thousands of sunset viewers to see the sun go down It did ! And everyone cheered at its successful disappearance (no real sunset however). Then back to Fira on a wing and a prayer (and the sniff of a petrol- soaked rag). We made it – presumably with teaspoons of petrol left. Oh well the man did instruct us to return the ATV with the fuel tank empty !!
Customer service in Santorini varies tremendously – from the restauranteur who looks as though you are imposing when you want to eat there (“No ‘English menu – what you want - Grilled, charcoal, or seafood ? - to the laid back “Nothing’ is too much trouble – so don’t ask for anything. ‘Anything’ is even more trouble” to the Café guys (as in El Greco Café) who treat you like a long lost brother ! As you walk past they call out “Hello how are you – you went past on a motorbike before, come shake my hand, how are you, and so on ! – in fact EVERY time we went past he stopped us, shook our hand and welcomed us in! And once in cafes like this the friendly treatment only increased !). At one Internet café (LP recommended) costs were high and Kitty almost got in a fight as she went ONE MINUTE over and hence was charged almost 3 dollars for the one minute (she DID NOT pay)– due to the machine being set up incorrectly – at another they were just great – a setup error and they gave her free access ! It takes all types….. and in Santorini that is what you get)
From here we spend Thursday in Athens, Friday in Rome and Saturday at the Amalfi coast. Life in the fast lane !!