From Naxos with love

Well Kitty has awoke and has emerged from her chrysalis metamorphosed. And what a metamorphosis. She has emerged ….. a biker’s moll ! When she went into hibernation she was right-wing bike-hater. And now … she loves it. More later.

Yesterday started with predictable chaos. When we arrived at Paros I was prepared for fierce battles with the Domatias (room-owners) but was ill-prepared for the young, gorgeous, soft-spoken lass who easily seduced me into her room at Naoussa. But that unfortunately was the last we saw of her. Her seemingly half-witted brother drove us there, took my passport for details, then disappeared. Relax, NO problem ! he will pick us up Sat at 9 to take us to the boat which departs 10km away at 10:00 am. At 9:20, next day – no dim-witted brother. Kitty frantically rings the owner at Pariki. He doesn’t know why but Relax, NO Problems, he will get the brother to pick us up in 15 min. NO says Kitty – 10 mins max. OK then the owner will drive to us himself with the passport. 20 minutes later a man arrives (without the passport) – Relax, NO problems he says we will get there. He was having coffee with the owner and the owner asked him to pick us up as a favour. Driver curses 2 minutes later when garbage truck picking up garbage blocks the way. No problems – plenty of time he says when he gets past. Foot to the floor for the next 10 km - we pull up at the ferry at 9:58. Dim-witted brother is there – but no gorgeous sister. He sheepishly hands over the passport. He slept in. We pay the money and board. 2 minutes later the ferry leaves for Naxos – with us barely on it. – We Relax, No Worries. We are off to Naxos.

The Greeks are incredible. They stress themselves out by trying to appear relaxed. You cannot talk about problems – you must listen to them (goes down really well with Kitty). No matter what you want they just tell you to be calm, then they give vague and useless information. “where is the internet café” “10 km away in Pariki” “ no, there is one here in Naoussa.” “ No, No – only in Pariki” “well there was one here yesterday and I was in it” “ No it is in Pariki !” Directions are always given by a wave off the hand and a vague “It is down there to the left” “How Far “ you ask, “It is down there” (vague wave of hands). Signs to tourist attractions are the same. There could be 10 yards away, 1 km away (more likely) or 10 km away down a track that is undrivable (quite often). You never know – except the signs get worse and more illegible as you get closer. I did get some pleasure in Athens by asking a guy at the gate to the Ancient Forum where the Roman Temple was. He was most annoyed “There is no Roman Temple” “ Well I don’t know its nationality I said except I know it is not an Australian Temple” “You tourists you drive us crazy” he replies. We see the temple. On the way back I tell him I know where he was confused. “ I was not confused” he announces. “Well one of was” – I reply and explain that the Roman Forum is separate from the Ancient (Greek) forum and is two hundred yards down the road. ( I hope his ulcer heals quickly!).

Enough. Naxos is certainly an island to visit. It is larger, greener more mountainous and more scenic than most. Mikes Bikes immediately rented us a far better scooter than we had on Paros. (It was designed for me, Ruth P., You cannot start the engine with the stand down – in fact the engine cuts out as soon as you put it down ! ) In the afternoon we do over 100 km over the top half off the island. The roads were steep and windy with countless hair-pin bends . But Biker’s moll Muntz did not bat an eyelid (except to keep the wind out) – the scenery was quite stunning. High mountains, deep ravines, sea-views, villages perched precariously on steep hill-sides, churches and ruined castles on hilltops, etc. We saw an ancient (centuries old) carved marble statue ( or Kouros) about 7m long still in its original quarry site. No doubt the carvers had not thought about how they may get it out. We travelled down narrow paths, rough dirt and stoney tracks, over mountain passes, through ravines and B.M. Muntz never complained once. She even wanted to get up at 6 this morning for more of the same. She is a new woman. Naxos is certainly an island that you must get around by motorised vehicle.

Addendum by Kitty – I have to say that while I don’t like motor bikes in the city, they are a fantastic way to get around these islands. And Graeme is driving extremely safely – at walking pace around the hair pin bends. So I got over the clenched teeth and fear in about 10 minutes.